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# Teton Cragging
- URL: https://blog.novaugust.net/teton-cragging/
- Published: 2015-09-02T17:14:32.000Z
- Updated: 2015-09-02T19:18:20.000Z
- Author: Matt Enlow
- Tags: Climbing, @disavlynx, post, tetons, @skrotdisa, alpine climbing, rock springs buttress, cascade canyon, #Import 2026-06-21 14:43

What good is it living in Jackson if all you're doing is driving elsewhere to climb limestone, amirite?

### Rock Springs Buttress

Early in the season, Chris introduced me to the Teton's craggiest crag: Rock Springs Buttress.

He, a visiting Mo, Big D and I went out and had ourselves a day. We took the ski resort's tram to the top, then hiked down to the buttress.

![Approach with Mo and Chris](https://storage.ghost.io/c/9b/95/9b955960-2312-4b04-8b46-7e66317cd0ed/content/images/2015/08/DSC_0104.jpg)*The easy start down to RSB, with Cody Peak in the background*

Disa and I did **Tolle Road** (5.8), and I distinctly remember thinking *Shit, I'm really glad I didn't have to lead this pitch* somewhere around when Big D snapped this one of me seconding.

![Me coming up](https://storage.ghost.io/c/9b/95/9b955960-2312-4b04-8b46-7e66317cd0ed/content/images/2015/08/P6180085.jpg)

The climbing and access to the buttress is great, but as I saw first-hand on another trip, you really have to be wary of the wildlife: marmots ... and gorillas.

![Marmots](https://storage.ghost.io/c/9b/95/9b955960-2312-4b04-8b46-7e66317cd0ed/content/images/2015/08/P1070449.jpg)  
*These little bastards will eat your everything*

![Chris the 'rilla](https://storage.ghost.io/c/9b/95/9b955960-2312-4b04-8b46-7e66317cd0ed/content/images/2015/08/P1070460.jpg)  
*The gorillas are mostly after your PB&J's*

#### XM Arete

A week or two after our first trip to the buttress Little D had arrived and our threesome conquered **Exum Arete** (5.9+). With both Big D and I being photo nerds, this is quite possibly the best documented ascent the Arete's ever seen.

![Little D, Big Exposure](https://storage.ghost.io/c/9b/95/9b955960-2312-4b04-8b46-7e66317cd0ed/content/images/2015/08/P1070973.jpg)  
*Little D seconds off the platform at station two, with all that lovely exposure below*

![Muscles](https://storage.ghost.io/c/9b/95/9b955960-2312-4b04-8b46-7e66317cd0ed/content/images/2015/08/P1070982.jpg)*Big D feeling strong after leading a pitch with more rope drag than anyone should ever have to deal with*

![Leading the Arete](https://storage.ghost.io/c/9b/95/9b955960-2312-4b04-8b46-7e66317cd0ed/content/images/2015/08/P6260387.jpg)*Yours truly following with a tagline*

![Little D finishing up](https://storage.ghost.io/c/9b/95/9b955960-2312-4b04-8b46-7e66317cd0ed/content/images/2015/08/P1080014.jpg)  
*Little D crests onto the easier ledges at the end of the climb*

![At the anchors](https://storage.ghost.io/c/9b/95/9b955960-2312-4b04-8b46-7e66317cd0ed/content/images/2015/08/P1080021.jpg)*OHAI - at the top of the ~~world~~ route*

![Me rapping](https://storage.ghost.io/c/9b/95/9b955960-2312-4b04-8b46-7e66317cd0ed/content/images/2015/08/P6270436.jpg)  
*Getting outta dere*

![Rapping](https://storage.ghost.io/c/9b/95/9b955960-2312-4b04-8b46-7e66317cd0ed/content/images/2015/08/P1080027.jpg)  
*Doing two rope raps betrayed us in the end, but ah well*

I did the Arete once more a month later. My old roomie [Matt Ward](https://blog.novaugust.net/symmetry-spire/) and I got off just as the afternoon rainstorm started blowing rain through the valley horizontally, only to discover that a marmot had stolen one of Matt's shoes.

---

Driving out to [Curtis Canyon](https://blog.novaugust.net/still-not-climbing/#curtiscanyon) late one evening I got a text from Chris telling me he had to bail on climbing plans for the next day - turns out he's married, and not to me. We'd maybe been climbing a bit too much...

Frantic to find someone to get on the rocks with, I got in touch with Goldman (who was up visiting from Lander) to see what he and his partner were doing the next day and if I could perhaps butt in on their plans.

Conveniently, his partner was in the middle of getting a DUI and Dave needed a friend for the next day!  
![Goldman on a sea of clouds](https://storage.ghost.io/c/9b/95/9b955960-2312-4b04-8b46-7e66317cd0ed/content/images/2015/08/P1110990.jpg)  
*Dave loads his pack on while gazing at the sea of clouds*

Goldman and I rode the tram up into sunshine that morning and looked down on the clouds covering the valley. We enjoyed the company of two other climbers on the way down, and then climbed the four-pitch bolted granite route *Do It For Doug*, 10c.

![Lockstep](https://storage.ghost.io/c/9b/95/9b955960-2312-4b04-8b46-7e66317cd0ed/content/images/2015/08/P1120012.jpg)

### Cascade Canyon

On the first of September Chris and I threw down eight pitches of climbing over in Cascade Canyon. We started the day on **Guide's Wall** (5.9, 6 pitches) and hit **No Perches Necessary** (5.9 R, 2 pitches) on the way out to spice up the walk.

![Chris starting the linkup of pitches three and four](https://storage.ghost.io/c/9b/95/9b955960-2312-4b04-8b46-7e66317cd0ed/content/images/2015/09/P3040054-5.jpg)  
*Chris starting the linkup of pitches three and four (70m rope required!) of Guide's Wall*

I took the first two pitches of Guide's Wall, Chris linked up three and four, and then presented me with the money pitch of our variation of the climb: beautiful white granite split with a 5.9 thin hand crack (pitch 5) linked into a twin-crack system with layback flakes (pitch 6).

We ended the day looking down on Jenny Lake. Chris put up the 5.9 fist pitch on No Perches and I took my time on the 5.8 face finish.

![Cascade Canyon](https://storage.ghost.io/c/9b/95/9b955960-2312-4b04-8b46-7e66317cd0ed/content/images/2015/09/P3040058.jpg)