Ah, trad climbing.

I took a week to work remotely (aka, climb) down in Laramie, where I spent time with loved ones and in loved places.

For the first time in a year, I wore tape gloves because I needed them, not because they make you look tough when you order a beer.

Tape gloves

Wednesday I got out with Sarah Rea, and we did laps on Lower Progressive (5.9) until the backs of my hands were puffy and my knees cried out in protest.

My pants survived the encounter, but I still ended up with scabs underneath. It's sharp out there kids.

Thursday, Ken and I broke in my new rack over at Blair III.

We climbed A Dream of Fat Antelope (5.9), Random Crystals (5.8+), and Sweet Variation (5.7). All three had twenty feet or so of easy 5.5 climbing, and then hit a headwall with a good crack for each.

Fat was the first one we did; it was the most "climby" and straightforward of trio. After the scramble there's an uncomfortable duckwalk right, a high foot that made me pause, and a great crack straight up.

Random Crystals had a fun two crack system for its headwall, which required another high foot to get started. Sweet Variation had a tiny crack whose tricky parts I skipped by climbing surprisingly good face holds.


Saturday Ken and I got after it again. I put up a Voo classic, Plumb Line (5.9+). It was fantastic overhanging hands, 2's the whole way. It was short, though; it ended just as I got into my rhythm.

After that we did Skull (10a), which was a great way to find out I'm not a real trad climber. Thanks for putting it up Ken.

Matt Enlow

Matt has a camera, a home on wheels, and this website
Down by the river